![]() If you hooked either pressurized hose up with the neutral, yoiu'd get 10psi pressure (voltage) hey? (120volts). The neutral could be though of as just a large hose that would take the water from your motors and spill it out into your back yard. ![]() You might think of the two hot busses as being one from a water tower with 10 psi push, and one from a SUCTION with 10 psi suction. So, the total flow out the end of your hose can intuitively be seen the be related to the pressure(voltage) and the frictin (resistance). And the amount of drag the water has going through the hose system, the friction, would be resistance (ohms). ![]() What you do get, is a higher combined FLOW (amperage). No matter how many hoses you ran off your main line, you could never get higher pressure. If your motors all had water wheels driving them, and a hose to spin them, your max pressure (voltage) would be from the height of the water tower at the end of your street (240v). Kieth, think of the electricity as water-the voltage is the "pressure" of the water coming out of the hose, the amperage is the amount. Oh wait, I did retain the original 50-amp full size breaker for my range because it was the only type available when I installed the main load center during construction. All of my GE breakers in both panels are the compact type, including the single-pole breakers. If I am not mistaken, it is the GE panels (I have two of their models) where there is no limitation on where you can insert compact breakers so long as it is straddling the buses. They are GE breakers, and are rated for either 120 or 240 volt operation. The second one is for two 120v circuits in one panel space.Īrt, if you look at the picture, you'll note that the smaller unit in the OP's post only contacts a single lug in the box.īoth allow each half to be used as a single pole 20a or a double pole 20a via a clip that latches the two "switches" together.Given what Von said and that you agreed with it, and also what the original poster said it sounded like you were indicating that these breakers were incapable of providing 240 V service. I'm missing the mistake when I revisit them-please clarify just so I understand and learn from it.:oIn your original posting you wrote: I was only referring to the confusion with names that my posting originally had before it landed on the cutting room floor. It was just a joke, a play on names, but the meaning got edited out by the time I finished typing. As I was typing my reply I had several references to "Jim" and others to "Jim" without properly identifying which one. ![]() Sorry Jim (and Jim), that is not what I intended that to sound like. It is the nmber of devices drawing current at the same time that matters.Īnd to the poster who referred to the Jim vs Jim thing. You can overload a 100A panel with just two 50A breakers. If you have a 100A panel, you had better have a 100A or smaller main breaker in it or you are inviting trouble. What is the problem with that? You will not overload the panel as a result because that is what the main breaker is for. Jim says that someone should refrain from using these breakers because it encourages overstuffing the panel. Otherwise, you would only have no voltage difference between the two feed lines goingto the 240V devices and they wouldn't work. These breakers are designed to contact both hot legs. I know a guy who solved a big problem with not having enough breaker positions in his subpanel by using these devices. The original question was whether or not you can get narrow breakers that will attach to both hot legs and give you 240V.
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